Saturday, February 7, 2015

Building your food stores the right way

The first question to answer, is how much do I need? The answer varies based on how long you want to be prepared for. There are various levels as covered in the "Incremental Prepper Plan" in the Prepper Handbook by JR Ray that help answer the how long question. In this post, we will talk about a logical approach to building your food stores.

Your first level is to start out buying a few extra of your usual can goods each time you go shopping, especially those with long shelf lives like canned salmon or tuna, but also vegetables and pasta. There are some good storage systems discussed in the Prepper Handbook with a sample shown below.





This system can be used to store and rotate your common vegetables, soups, and long shelf life canned foods.

A good stocking strategy needs to consider your consumption and the shelf life of the particular food. For example, suppose you eat on average one can of corn every week. That is 52 cans per year that you would be expected to consume. Now also suppose that the shelf life or expiration date is 2 years out. That would mean that the most you could keep would be up to 52 weeks x 2 years = 104 cans in stock which would be a 2-year supply.

I might start out with an initial goal of 13 to 26 extra cans, which is 3 to 6 months supply. Then after many of your other needs are in place you can ramp up your target to 52 cans which is a year supply. Our incremental strategy needs to be used in many places since no one has unlimited money to go out and buy a ton of supplies.  

Second, I strongly suggest you get some long-term (25-year +) storage foods, which are kept at more than one location. The Prepper Handbook provides a “Calculator” where you can determine your food needs. Then once you review / edit your foods, you can put them in a “Q” that allows you to set up a budget and get say $50 per month shipped to you. Rice, Beans & Wheat are the lowest cost foods. Make this your secondary food store behind having your pantry full of the canned foods you normally eat.  A basic 90 supply of food for one person costs less than $200 as shown below.


 
1 Beans, 1 Rice, & 1 Oat pails = 90 days of food for one person with a little gardening, foraging &/or hunting.  


2 Beans, 2 Rice, & 2 Oat cans = 21 days of food for one person with a little gardening, foraging &/or hunting.


For more information on this, you can e-mail us at: PrepperHandbook2014@gmail.com and we can set you up to get your budgeted amount of food stores, foods that you select, sent to you each month.

The last stage of your food stores plan is to have gardening, livestock, and a sustainable food plan as outlined in the Prepper Handbook  

You need enough can goods and food in your pantry to last a minimum of 2 weeks, and preferably 60 days. Then when your other important preparations are covered as outlined in the Incremental Prepper Plan, you need to expand your food stores to last 6 to 12 months. This gives you time to expand your garden and grow your own food.

At this point, you would need to be gardening and have food preservation supplies and skills in place to survive year after year as a part of a sustainable living style. Then you are truly prepared for a worst-case scenario, at least with regard to food supplies. 

Of course, there are many other needs to consider. When planning, remember: 
The Rule of 3 - you can die in:
a.      3 seconds without security
b.      3 minutes without air;
c.      3 hours without shelter (in hostile weather);
d.      3 days without water &
e.      3 weeks without food.

Wednesday, January 28, 2015

Night Vision – essential for security

We attack at dawn! 

For centuries, this was the strategy for attackers who wanted to surprise their sleeping enemy. Attacking from the east also had the sun to their back and in their enemies’ eyes. But times have changed with the invention of night vision.  Now the time to attack is near the darkest point, with silencers or bows and arrows.  With out night vision, it is your most vulnerable time.
 
There are a few good options on Night Vision, and many cheap ones, so it is important to check around. Most people start with a cheap one and wish either they had bought a better one, or later they do buy a better one. Here is my advice.

Check with people you know and trust but also look at the ratings on places like Amazon who publishes the good and bad ratings alike. I only buy products with 4 star ratings or higher (5 star system) , that have been rated by 10 or more buyers, and have less than 10% of their ratings as only 1 star.

The same company makes many of the inexpensive brands so again trusted ratings are important. The main classification system is Generation 1, 2, 3 & 4. Four is latest and best but only available to the military. There is a big step up in cost and notable step in performance with each newer Generation. The Gen 1 sells typically for less than $1,000 and prices have gotten lower over time with some down around two hundred dollars. The Gen 2 is roughly from slightly under $1,000 to $2,000 and Gen 3 is 2,000 and higher. This is rough pricing, there are wide ranges on all of them, and in time, they should get lower. It is important to remember that you pay for what you get although you do not always “get what you pay for.” Some times, you pay high prices for good quality but get junk if you are not careful.

This link shows some dark night examples of the G1, G2 & G3 differences:

http://www.eotechinc.com/night-vision-technology

After considering the different Generations, there is Thermal like the FLIR, which is the best for seeing warm-blooded creatures with prices down just under $2,000 now for the least inexpensive models.

You can buy several types of NV (Night Vision) equipment:
  1. Monocles (lowest cost)
  2. Binoculars
  3. Scopes, with sights, cross hairs, dots, etc.
These different types have different ways to use them.
  1. Hand held only (lowest cost)
  2. Hand held &/or head &/or helmet mount
  3. Rifle Mount
Obviously, the most flexible mounting is one that does it all.
Using a low cost Gen 1 Monocle hand held, it sees OK out to about 75 yards in an open field on a star lit night, but only 25 – 50 yards in heavy woods or a dark over cast night. It is a good starter tool and can be used by a sentry or guard post observing the area, but you cannot hardly aim or shoot a rifle with it at all.

I like the Gen 3 PVS-14. It does not have any type of sighting like a scope does, but it is small and will mount in line with many scopes or sighting systems and will see 100 to 200  yards in most conditions except fog which favors a thermal sight. Here is a 100-yard example for the PVS-14:

http://www.m4carbine.net/showthread.php?58392-Purchasing-a-PVS-14-(things-to-know)

It usually comes with a head mounting harness and a rail mount that will fit behind your scope and you can buy a Mitch helmet mount for about a hundred dollars. A very important feature is that the PVS is GATED. It switches off when exposed to light, protecting if from washing out like less expensive brands do. I have heard that being exposed to light a few times can render them useless.

Using the head mount, you can wear it and look around in all directions, with out having to point your gun (an act of aggression), and then aim through your gun sight to fire. This is easier to look around and an advantage as opposed to pointing your rifle everywhere, especially if you are in a snipers sight and he sees you point your rifle at him when just looking around.

Several sights like the EOTech 558
http://www.eotechinc.com/holographic-weapon-sights/model-558

and Aimpoint Micro T1 are night vision compatible. They light up their sight with a NV visible only dot, so others do not see it and it does not illuminate your face like sights might. In addition, the T1 has a five-year battery life if left on full time. The EOTech battery life is about 600 hours on AA batteries, which is what I like about it along with many other excellent features.

Another consideration is the ACOG TA31 low light Scope (not NV).
http://www.trijicon.com/na_en/products/product3.php?pid=TA31-D-100288
or
www.trijicon.com

It is the most popular with the military and has been for many years. They have one of the most versatile AR reticle aiming systems available for close range (Chevron) AND longer distance cross hairs for “large” targets. It also has a clever built-in ranging system. The cross hairs cover a 19″ wide target at their intended range. So you raise the scope up until the cross hairs width covers the width of an enemy soldier and fire as that is the correct range to use. They have a light gathering fiber optic tube that works well even in low light conditions and they have Tritium lighted cross hairs for use in semi-darkness although it will not be as good as a PVS 14 in total darkness or beyond 100 yards, and cannot be worn on a head mount like a mono or the PVS.

My preferred set up would be a Head / Helmet mount PVS-14 with a Micro T1 Aimpoint red dot sight for night (or the EOTech) and the ACOG TA31 for day time. This is a low/no battery consumption set up, with the night vision being the highest battery consumption, lasting about 40 hours. Normally, I like tools that use common AA batteries, which is not the case here, but rechargeable batteries are available although fully charged they run only about ½ as long.

There are obviously people who would disagree and that prefer other set-ups, but you cannot go wrong with these quality products and are unlikely to regret your purchase. Their only down side is they are expensive, but you pay for what you get, and remember your life could depend on these some day.

For more information on Security, see Passive Layered Security for your home and property or read the Prepper Handbook. on Amazon.  It is too large to publish in one paper book but you can down load the free reader on your computer, iPad or iPhone, order the book and read it with out a Kindle.

For additional information see the following links:


Beginners:
The Rule of 3 (set priorities by this)
Why we are ALL Preppers (for skeptics)


Food and water:

Edible Wild Plants:

Natural Disaster Preparations

Firearms and security:
Investing for Preppers (Financial Security)

Shelter:

Wilderness Survival:
Survival Pack (Security Patrol or Bug Out pack)

Sunday, January 25, 2015

Survival Pack

Security Patrol, Scout Team or Bug Out Packs should be a US Military 3-day Assault Pack; not a cheap foreign made knock off. Then carry or wear the following:

  1. Carry an AK 47, AR10 or AR15 Rifle with a sling & ACOG TA31 Scope (AR's).
  2. Wear a MOLLE bulletproof vest also know as an IBA (Individual Body Armor). If you cannot afford one of these, then get a MOLLE load bearing vest.
  3. Wear a MICH Helmet with a Gen 3 Night Vision mounted (if night time)
  4. Glock 22 - 40 caliber or Glock 17 - 9mm Pistol in a good weather resistant holster.
  5. 2-4 loaded magazines for the AK/AR, 1-2 for the Glock balanced on your IBA.
  6. Communications Radio with earpiece for quite operation on your IBA; extra batteries.
  7. Walker Game Ear worn to enhance and protect hearing; eye protection.
  8. Hunting or combat knife, bayonet, machete or equivalent.
  9. Compass, matches, lip balm in a MOLLE hand grenade pocket.

Then the Scout, Patrol or survival pack should contain the following:
  1. Ammo–400 AR/300 AK rounds and 50 Glock Rounds & a small cleaning kit or “snake.”
  2. Binoculars or telescope handy (variable15X+ Power).  Good to also have ammo cached around in strategic places.
  3. Security trip wires & motion detecting lights / alarms like the Home Bright Alarm
  4. Military spec US Made E-tool – critical entrenching tool for quick cover. Further, it is imperative that you know the difference between cover (stops bullets) and concealment, which hides you from sight but does NOT stop bullets.
  5. Military camo Poncho (or Ghillie suit) for concealment & shelter; Insect repellent. 550 Military Para cord. Wool blanket or poncho liner if cold weather.
  6. Stainless Steel Water bottle, filter straw and either 1 gallon of water per day (8.4 lbs each) or water treatment like chlorine dioxide tablets, or 8 drops of bleach per gallon and know where fresh water can be obtained along your route.
  7. MREs, emergency food bar or dried foods and light cook gear.
  8. Folding knife, fire starter and an axe or machete; Bic lighter & waterproof matches.
  9. Area Map (waterproof) & back up compass
  10. For an over night trip/kit, I might include a US Military 4 Piece Modular Sleep system (using the appropriate sleeping bag set for my climate) which includes the Gore Tex (water proof) camo bivy but use the Rucksack backpack instead. Otherwise, I would carry an OD Green mesh hammock (camo sprayed) if traveling light and using the Assault pack.
Carry what is really needed, not all that makes you comfortable, weight makes long walks harder, short runs much slower, and in time you focus more on your overloaded pack than what is going on around you.

Guard duty, Patrols or Sentries should have similar equipment (less the overnight gear) plus extra Ammo cached at the Observation Post. Bug Out packs might be similar but should be the full size Rucksack to carry more water, food, & ammo.

This is another excerpt from the Prepper Handbook  by JR Ray on Amazon.  You can download their free e-reader and read it on your computer, iPhone or iPad.




For more information see the following links: