Wednesday, June 29, 2016

Top 10 Barter Goods

During an economic meltdown, a wide spread Power Outage, Hurricane, Terrorist take over, or any other long term serious event, barter will be necessary.  With out electricity, credit and ATM cards are worthless.  The only reason a paper bill (dollar) has any value at all, is the confidence the public has in it; that it is worth more than the paper its printed on.  Isn't it a bit amazing how the same piece of paper with "20" printed on it is worth much more than with a "1" printed on it? The same paper and ink with just a slightly different image makes a huge difference in the perceived value. But what is true value?  Obviously things that are necessary to survive (see Rule of 3) like air, water, food, shelter and security are very import.

So what are the characteristics of ideal Barter Investments:
  1. Low cost, but certain to increase in value after a collapse; essential to survive
  2. Stable over a many years; made from stainless steel; long shelf life
  3. Unlikely to flag you as a Prepper; secrecy is critical to avoid making you a target
  4. Used in your every-day life so that they can be rotated like other stockpiled items
  5. Contributes to (not threatens) you, such as seeds traded to a neighbor in exchange for a bushel of food as opposed to a gun or ammo that could be used to shoot you.
Here are some Top 10 items that should be valuable to barter with, listed in what I believe might offer the best return on investment. 
  1. US Silver Coins - the most stable form of currency throughout history.  Gold is too valuable; what would you buy with a $10,000 bill if no one could make change?  A low cost alternative might be copper pennies, which they stopped making in 1982 because the copper in them was worth about 3-4 cents. One-gram gold might also be good for protecting wealth but for barter would be like having 100 bills where not many people could make change for them.
  2. Ammo - there is debate here that you don't want to arm potential enemies and so you should not trade any ammo, but it will offer a substantial return on your investment being worth more than gold in a "Walking Dead" type break down. A counter to the argument is that arming your neighbors could serve and an outer layer of defense. A solution to this concern might be to barter a limited number of small caliber, short range ammunition like .22 LR (or 9mm) and not long range sniper rounds.  Barter individual rounds, not boxes of ammo. Some suggest popular magazines, which will be critical in the early stages, but not longer term as casualties mount and weapons are readily available.
  3. Manual Can Openers - cans of food will be an important source of salvaged food, but you need to be able to open them with out injuring yourself. See our post on Salvaging Supplies.
  4. Seeds  - one of the most valuable items long-term along with chickens and other livestock. Save low cost seeds of fast growing Prepper foods that can be preserved.  Short term, they are not worth much, but long term they would be priceless. See our posts on seeds for survival and gardening in the Blog Table of Contents.
  5. Hand tools - shovels, hoes, rakes, post hole diggers, crescent wrench, pipe wrench, hand saws, hand drills, hand planer, axe, machete, water hoses, hand water pumps, sprinklers, etc.  A good garden hoe will be priceless when trying to grow your own food.
  6. Handheld radios for communications  at $23 for 2, you can't afford not to have a set for you and a set or two for your neighbors to warn you if a threat is coming. Be sure to have rechargeable batteries and several $5 solar powered battery chargers
  7. First Aid/Medical Supplies, bandages, disinfectants, hydrogen peroxide, alcohol, acetaminophen, Ibuprofen, antibiotic creams, Listerine mouthwash - rotate them as they will expire over time (their Achilles heel). Have a still to make your own disinfectant and purify water.
  8. Books of all types, but especially educational ones and those that teach basic skills like gardening, farming/ranching, food preservation, hunting, fishing, firearms, reloading, chemistry, carpenter, military experience, ham radio, bio fuels, medical care, the ability to fix broken mechanical devices, tying knots, teaching and other important skills. 
  9. Maps, especially water proof ones are valuable during migrations and a good Silva compass
  10. TBD - to be determined - I will complete this with your suggestions 
Here are some additional items that are good to have and valuable for barter, but are not necessarily a good investment because they don't meet our criteria, so they didn't make the top 10 list: 
  1.  Items like tobacco, alcohol/whiskey, chocolate; too expensive and not essential, however for people who are addicted, these are important.
  2. Cross Bow or Bow and Arrows for long term for stealth and security after, ammo runs.
  3. Bicycles with trailers, padlocks, chain and parts for them (along with horses) will be essential for travel. But these are far too expensive to invest in for Barter, unlike can openers.
  4. BB Guns (higher powered) and lots of BB's for hunting birds and small game but which also do not represent a security threat to you like trading ammo does.
  5. Rolls of heavy PE film (black & clear)
  6. Pesticides for gardening and insect repellent for security watch (short term) but develop natural sustainable sources for long term needs.
  7. Fly Swatters, old fashion pest control before other means were available.
  8. Lanterns, candles and matches, especially waterproof ones.
  9. Pencils, paper, and a sharpener.
  10. Smokers for preserving foods
  11. Mason canning jars & lids.
  12. Fishing line, hooks and nets.
  13. Duct tape, glue, screws and nails
  14. Camping, travel supplies, and collapsible water containers.
  15. LED flashlights, both battery and crank dynamo powered.
  16. Para cord
  17. Salt
  18. 12-volt electrical components, LED bulbs, AC inverters & Solar Panels
  19. Your suggestions? 
Credit/ATM cards and paper money will be worthless.  There will be swap events, traveling salvagers/traders and resale shops along with fix-it shops that will be popular.  No nail salons, gyms or video games.  Only Silver and Barter are sustainable over time.  Our post on Investing for Preppers talks about the value of goods in terms of silver coin.

By this time, it obvious to the few who have survived that things have changed, reset you might say, from an era of stupidity and laziness.  The degree of the break down will largely determine the length and slope of the recovery. Foreign "help" (a.k.a invasion) is likely, whether wanted or not. Not only will we have to fight to survive, we will have to fight to keep our freedom from Communist China, Socialist Europe or the Muslim Middle East. But that is a topic for another post.

For additional information see the following links: 
Blog Table of Contents;

Top 10 List of Prepper info
Top Rated Prepper Handbook Posts of all time
Top Rated Prepper Website

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Tuesday, June 28, 2016

Country Home Security Plan


Security for a Country Home or Retreat is different than an Urban Home.  You generally have more area to cover with fewer people. I recommend at least 4, preferably 6, wireless security cameras powered from solar charged batteries.  This will allow you to watch more area, both night and day although night attacks are the most dangerous threat, especially if you don't have Night Vision or Thermal Vision gear and the attackers do.  In addition to the cameras surrounding the Retreat, motion detectors, trip wires and traps along key avenues of access are needed to provide several layers of security.  

Monitor the cameras 24/7 in 6 hour shifts and have Security Patrols and Rovers that have practiced Group Security Drills. The Security patrols would consist of ideally two groups, each containing 2-4 people and a dog (Rover).  Dogs see and smell better than humans, therefor will detect intruders much faster than people, plus they make good companions. German Shepherds are probably the best choice of dog. Each member of the Security Patrol should have certain common supplies in their Security Patrol Pack.  These Teams will later be your Scout Patrols to gather Actionable Intelligence and Salvage for Supplies. Game cameras, strategically located, can show where potential threats have probed or investigated your group. 

Good Security Patrols do not follow a pattern, as patterns can be learned, thus rendering the patrols vulnerable. By doing a 6 hour rotation, you could use a minimum of 15 people for security. Every group would work each of the shifts, so as to not stick the same group on at the same time everyday. The Command Post Leader would monitor the cameras, trip wires, alarms, etc. so that he/she can alert the Security Patrol to potential intruders using a good set of Radios for communication

In addition to, or alternately in place of your Security Patrol(s), having Lookout, Out Post or Listening Posts might be advisable with cached supplies nearby. Having a Rapid Deployment Team to support these Out Post Teams is good if you have enough people, but be careful not to over react to a diversionary attack and leave your retreat or back side weak and vulnerable.  When encountering threats it may be better to fall back toward your retreat and regroup than to send man power forward and leave the retreat under-staffed.  So have planned fall back locations.

As I sit here thinking about this, I have many scenarios running through my head, and planning for every possible action is impossible. I suggest drafting some standard operating procedures (SOPs), detailing travel routes, primary and secondary defensive positions depending on where an attack may come from, home invasion plan medical and trauma guides, etc... Then practice the SOPs with your team, determine what works and what doesn't, then fine tune your SOPs. The goal is for everyone to know what to do when something happens, i.e. attack from the west, security and residents take up positions to repel that attack. You'll want people guarding all key points of the compound.  Have several defensive plan options with code names.  

If I ran an enemy unit, I would use small groups to attack key structures (rain water collection unit, solar grid, livestock, etc.) as this would require people to come out and fix it, as well as bring security out in the open to protect whoever is working on the unit. Knowing approximately where the guards will be during repairs, I would position snipers to take them out of action... wound if possible, kill if necessary. A wounded person slows people down and causes more burden than a dead person.  Our defensive counter to this is to determine where these snipers are likely to be and deploy a Scout Team to check them before going back out. 
Walls would be ideal, but they might not be practical, it all depends on the overall setup. Walls don't necessarily have to be strong enough to keep people out; they just need to keep people from seeing in
The last step is to have evacuation plans along with primary and secondary regrouping locations. Topics like these are covered in the Prepper Handbook available on Amazon Kindle for $4.99, but in the end, you must develop your own confidential plans. These can only serve as food for thought. Good luck and stay safe.
For additional information see the following links: 
Blog Table of Contents;
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Monday, June 20, 2016

Home Invasion Response Plan

At the sound of breaking glass, the alarm going off or some sound that clearly indicates a home invasion is in progress, it is time to spring in to action.  The senior household leader should loudly call out Intruder, Intruder, Intruder.  This is important to alert others and insure the suspect Intruder is not actually a family member. Do this as you grab your gun, flashlight and cell phone.  Call 911 and put it on speaker as you immediately move to a vantage point that provides cover and a view of the direction(s) that the intruder is likely to approach from. At the same time your spouse, partner or the designated backup leader (if any) gets their gun, flashlight and cell phone, and also calls 911, then at this point you have two options:

  1. Your back up person can gather any family members or children into your designated safe area, and stand guard, ideally close enough behind you to serve as a back up.
  2. Have family members stay in their room and/or proceed to a designated hiding place that would provide cover, minimize the risk of being struck by a stray shot and make it hard for an intruder to find them and use them as a hostage.  In no case would I surrender my gun to an armed intruder, but each of us should have thought this out and have stashed guns as back up. 
Wait for the police to arrive and proceed with caution when they do so you are not mistaken for an intruder.  Only if necessary, should you proceed to clear the house which might occur if your family members chose step 2 above, in which case, you should secure them first. Should any intruders get past you, the others should be to defend them selves but not leave the safe area until the police or you tell them it is safe to do so.
Practice this exercise with the whole family to see how it works and fine tune the plan as needed.
For additional information see the following links: 
Blog Table of Contents;
Urban Survival Plan
Country Home Security Plan
Passive Layered Security

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Sunday, June 19, 2016

Support our Right to Bear Arms

Support the millions of Americans that protect our Right to Bear Arms by joining the NRA for only $25. 

For additional information see:  NRA
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Wednesday, June 15, 2016

Truth about the AR 15

AR is short for ArmaLite Rifle which is the company that first designed the rifle.  The AR is a low powered rifle that primarily uses NATO ammo that is in compliance with the Geneva Convention on modern warfare.  This basically means the bullets make a small clean wound that is easy to treat as opposed to the common Law Enforcement or Personal Protection ammo that expands on impact creating a huge fatal wound cavity.

In some states like Washington, all big game must be hunted with a minimum of .24 caliber ammunition – relegating the AR-15 to small game and varmint duty exactly because it is a low-powered rifle.  So the AR-15 is NOT a “high powered” rifle. Yes, it has more power than a handgun – all rifles do.

An AR 15 is NOT an assault rifle and is NOT an Automatic. For more factual information on this topic, see the following link: http://tribunist.com/news/when-you-hear-someone-call-an-ar-15-an-assault-rifle-show-them-this/
 
AR slug size below:
Here is BEST link: http://assaultweapontruth.com/
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Saturday, June 11, 2016

Delivering Babies - Post Collapse

PREPARING FOR THE BIRTH
1. Call for help if possible. Contact emergency services. That way, even if you have to deliver the baby yourself, help will arrive soon if you experience complications. The dispatcher should also be able to either talk you through the delivery or connect you to someone who can.
  • If the mother has a doctor or midwife, call that person too. The medical professional can often stay on the phone and help guide you through the process.
2. Determine how far labor has progressed. The first stage of labor is called the “latent” stage, where the body is getting ready to deliver by dilating the cervix. It can take a long time, especially if this is the woman's first child. The second, or “active” stage occurs when the cervix has completely dilated.
  • Women may not experience as much pain or discomfort during this stage as later stages.
  • If the woman is fully dilated and you can see the baby's head crowning, she's in stage two. Wash your hands, skip to the next section and get ready to catch the baby.
  • Unless you have been trained to do so, don't try to examine the cervix. Just watch to see if the head begins to appear.
3. Time contractions. Time the contractions from the beginning of one to the beginning of the next, and note how long they last. The further along labor is, the more regular, stronger, and closer together contractions become. Here's what you need to know about contractions:
  • Contractions that are 10 minutes apart or less are a sign that the mother has entered labor. Physicians recommend that you contact the hospital when contractions are 5 minutes apart and last 60 seconds, and this activity has been going for for an hour. If this is the case, you probably have time to make it to the hospital if you live close to one.
  • First-time mothers are likely to give birth when contractions are three to five minutes apart and last 40 to 90 seconds, increasing in strength and frequency for at least an hour.
  • If the contractions are two minutes or less apart, buckle down and get ready to deliver the baby, especially if the mother's had other children and they were fast labors. Also, if the mother feels like she's going to have a bowel movement, the baby is probably moving through the birth canal, creating pressure on the rectum, and is on its way out.
  • If the baby is preterm, you should contact the mother's physician and emergency services at any signs of labor.
4. Sanitize your arms and hands. Remove any jewelry, such as rings or watches. Wash your hands thoroughly with antimicrobial soap and warm water. Scrub your arms all the way up to your elbows. If you have the time, wash your hands for five minutes; if you don’t have time for that, wash them thoroughly for at least one minute.
  • Remember to scrub in between your fingers and under your nails. Use a nail brush or even a toothbrush to clean under your nails.
  • Wear sterile gloves if available. Don’t wear things like dish washing gloves, which are likely loaded with bacteria.
  • To finish (or if you don't have access to soap and water), use an alcohol-based hand sanitizing product or rubbing alcohol to kill off any bacteria and viruses that may have been on your skin. This helps prevent giving the mother or the baby an infection.
5. Prepare a birthing area. Get set up so that you have everything you'll need within easy reach, and so the mother is as comfortable as possible. There will be a mess afterwards, so you may want to have the birthing area somewhere you don't mind getting messy.
  • Collect clean towels and clean sheets. If you have clean waterproof tablecloths or a clean vinyl shower curtain, these are excellent at preventing blood and other fluids from staining furniture or carpeting. In a pinch, you can use newspapers, but they are not as sanitary.
  • Get a blanket or something warm and soft to wrap the baby in. The infant must be kept warm once it’s delivered.
  • Find a few pillows. You might need them to prop up the mother as she's pushing. Cover them with clean sheets or towels.
  • Fill a clean bowl with warm water, and get a pair of scissors, a few lengths of string, rubbing alcohol, cotton balls, and a bulb syringe. You may find that sanitary napkins or paper towels are helpful to stop the bleeding later.
  • Get a bucket in case the mother feels nauseated or the need to vomit. You may also want to get a glass of water for the mother. Labor is hard work.
6. Prepare a birthing area. Get set up so that you have everything you'll need within easy reach, and so the mother is as comfortable as possible. There will be a mess afterwards, so you may want to have the birthing area somewhere you don't mind getting messy.
  • Collect clean towels and clean sheets. If you have clean waterproof tablecloths or a clean vinyl shower curtain, these are excellent at preventing blood and other fluids from staining furniture or carpeting. In a pinch, you can use newspapers, but they are not as sanitary.
  • Get a blanket or something warm and soft to wrap the baby in. The infant must be kept warm once it’s delivered.
  • Find a few pillows. You might need them to prop up the mother as she's pushing. Cover them with clean sheets or towels.
  • Fill a clean bowl with warm water, and get a pair of scissors, a few lengths of string, rubbing alcohol, cotton balls, and a bulb syringe. You may find that sanitary napkins or paper towels are helpful to stop the bleeding later.
  • Get a bucket in case the mother feels nauseated or the need to vomit. You may also want to get a glass of water for the mother. Labor is hard work.
7. Help the mother find a comfortable position. She might want to walk around or crouch down during this stage of labor, especially when a contraction hits. As she starts to transition to the second phase, she might want to settle into a position to give birth or cycle through a few different ones. Switching between positions may help the labor progress more smoothly, but let her decide what’s working for her body. Here are four standard positions, and the pros and cons of each:
  • Squatting. This puts gravity to the mother's advantage, and can open the birth canal 20%-30% more than other positions. If you suspect the baby is breech (emerging feet-first), suggest this position as it gives the baby room to rotate. You can help the mother in this position by kneeling behind her and supporting her back.
  • All-fours: This position is gravity-neutral and can ease back pain, and the mother might instinctively choose it. It can provide pain relief if the mother has hemorrhoids. Position yourself behind her if that's the case.
  • Side-lying: This leads to a slower descent through the birth canal, but can lead to a more gentle stretching of the perineum and may reduce tearing. Have the mother lie on her side, with her knees bent, and lift the top leg. She might also need to prop herself up on an elbow.
  • Lithotomy position (lying back). This is the most common position used in hospitals, with the woman lying flat on her back and her legs bent at the knee. It allows maximum access for the caregiver, but it puts a lot of pressure on the mother's back and is not considered ideal. It also may make contractions slower and more painful. If she seems to prefer this position, try putting a few pillows under her back to ease the pain.

DELIVERING THE BABY

1. Guide the mother in pushing. Don't encourage her to push until she feels an unstoppable pressure to do so — you don't want to waste her energy and make her exhausted too early. When women are ready to push, they may feel increased pressure near their low back, perineum, or rectum. It may even feel to her as though she is ready to have a bowel movement. When she is ready, though, you can help guide her through the pushing.
  • Ask the mother to curl forward and tuck her chin. This curved position will help the baby through the pelvis. When pushing, it can be helpful if the mother holds her knees or legs with her hands and pulls her legs back.
  • The area around the vagina will bulge out, until you see the top of the baby's head (crowning). As soon as the baby crowns, it's time for the mother to push in earnest.
  • Encourage her to focus her abdominal muscles to push down, as you might do when you’re trying to make your urine come out faster or having a bowel movement. This can help avoid straining or directing the pushing force upward toward the neck and face.
  • Three to four pushes, lasting 6-8 seconds each, are considered appropriate per contraction. However, it is important to encourage the mother to do whatever comes naturally to her.
  • Keep encouraging deep, slow breathing. Pain can be controlled to different extents through mental relaxation and by concentrating on deep breathing instead of panicking or being distracted by everything that is going on. Different people have different levels of mental control, but deep, slow breathing is always a benefit during childbirth.
  • Understand that the woman may urinate or have a bowel movement during labor. This is normal and is not a cause for concern. Don’t even mention it -- you don’t want to embarrass the mother. 

2. Support the baby's head as it emerges. This step isn't complicated, but it's important. Pay extra attention to these tips:
  • Do not pull on the baby's head or the umbilical cord. This can cause nerve damage.
  • If the cord is wrapped around the baby's neck, which is fairly common, gently lift it over the baby's head or carefully loosen it so the baby can slip through the loop. Do not pull on the cord.
  • It’s natural -- and in fact desirable -- for the baby to pass through the pelvis face-down. If the baby’s face is facing toward the mother’s back, don’t worry. This is actually the best position for delivery.
  • If instead of the head emerging you see the feet or buttocks coming first, you have a breech birth. See instructions for that situation below.
3. Prepare for the body to emerge. When the baby's head rotates to one side (which it will probably do on its own), be prepared for the body to come out with the next push.
  • If the baby's head does not rotate to one side, ask the mother to push again. The baby will likely rotate spontaneously.
  • If the baby's head doesn't rotate without help, gently turn it to one side. This should help a shoulder emerge with the next push. Don't push it if you feel any resistance.
  • Deliver the other shoulder. Gently lift the body toward the mother's stomach to help the other shoulder come through. The rest of the body should follow quickly.
  • Keep supporting the head. The body will be slippery. Make sure you're still providing enough support for the baby's neck, which isn't strong enough to support the head on its own. 
4. Manage complications. Hopefully, all goes well and you've successfully delivered a healthy baby by now. If the delivery seems stalled, though, here's what you can do:
  • If the head comes out and the rest of the body doesn't come out after she pushes three times, have the mother lie on her back. Instruct her to grab her knees and pull her thighs toward her stomach and chest. This is called the McRoberts position, and it's very effective at helping push the baby out. Have her push hard with each contraction.
  • Never push on a mother's abdomen to try to help deliver a stuck baby.
  • If the feet come out first, see the section on breech birth below.
  • If the baby is still stuck and emergency responders are still nowhere near the scene, you could try to guide the baby's head gently downward toward the mother's rectum. This should only be attempted as a last resort, and should not be attempted at all if medical attention will be arriving soon. 
5. Hold the baby so the fluids in its mouth and nose drain. Hold the delivered baby with two hands, one supporting its neck and head. Tilt the head down at about a 45-degree angle to allow the fluids to drain. The feet should be slightly above the head (but don't hold the baby by the feet).
  • You can also wipe any mucus or amniotic fluid from the nose and mouth area with clean, sterile gauze or cloth. 
 6. Place the baby on the mother's chest. Ensure full-skin contact, and cover them both with clean towels or blankets. The skin-to-skin contact encourages a hormone called oxytocin, which will help the mother deliver the placenta.
Position the baby so that its head is still slightly lower than the rest of the body, so fluids can keep draining. If the mother is lying down and the baby's head is on her shoulder and its body is on her breast, this should happen naturally. 
  
7. Make sure the baby is breathing. It should be crying slightly. If it's not, you can take a few steps to help make sure the airway is clear.
  • Rub the body. Physical touch will help the baby breathe. Rub over its back firmly with a blanket while it's still on the mother's chest. If that's not helping, turn the baby so it's facing the ceiling, tilt the head back to straighten the airway, and keep rubbing the body. It might not cry, but doing this ensures that the baby gets the air it needs.
  • Rubbing vigorously with a clean towel can also help stimulate the baby to breathe.
  • Manually clear fluids. If the baby gags or turns blue, wipe fluids out of the mouth and nose with a clean blanket or cloth. If that doesn't do the trick, squeeze the air out of a bulb syringe, put the tip in the nose or mouth, and release the bulb to suck the fluid into the bulb. Repeat until all the fluid is cleared, emptying the bulb between uses. If you don't have a bulb, you can use a drinking straw.
  • If nothing else has worked, try flicking the soles of the baby's feet with your fingers, or gently popping its bottom. Don't slap the baby.
  • If none of this helps, perform infant CPR.
Delivering the Placenta

Prepare for the placenta. Delivering the placenta is the third stage of labor. It will arrive anywhere between a few minutes to an hour after the baby is delivered. The mother will probably feel an urge to push after a few minutes; this is helpful.
  • Put a bowl close to the vagina. Right before it emerges, blood will come out of the vagina and the cord will get longer.
  • Have the mother sit up and push the placenta into the bowl.
  • Rub the mother's stomach below her belly button firmly to help slow down the bleeding. It might hurt her, but it's necessary. Keep rubbing until the uterus feels like a large grapefruit in the lower belly.

  1. Let the baby breastfeed. If the cord isn't stretched too tightly by doing so, encourage the mother to breastfeed as soon as possible. This will help stimulate a contraction and encourage the delivery of the placenta. It may also help slow bleeding. 
    • If breastfeeding isn't an option, stimulating the nipples can also help stimulate delivering the placenta.
  2. Image titled Deliver a Baby Step 21
    3
    Don't pull on the umbilical cord. As the placenta is delivering, don't tug on the cord to hurry it along. Let it come out on its own as the mother pushes. Pulling on it could cause severe damage.
  3. Image titled Deliver a Baby Step 22
    4
    Bag the placenta. Once the placenta is out, place it in a trash bag or a container with a lid. When and if the mother goes to a hospital, the doctor might want to inspect the placenta for any abnormalities.
  4. Image titled Deliver a Baby Step 23
    5
    Decide whether to cut the cord. You should only cut the umbilical cord if professional medical attention is hours away. Otherwise, leave it alone and just make sure it's not pulled tight.
    • If you do need to cut the cord, first feel the cord gently for a pulse. After about ten minutes, the cord will stop pulsing because the placenta has separated. Don't cut it before then.
    • Don't worry about pain. There are no nerve endings in an umbilical cord; neither mother nor child will feel pain when its cut. The cord will, however, be slippery and difficult to handle.
    • Tie a string or lace around the cord, about three inches from the baby's belly button. Tie it tightly with a double knot.
    • Tie another lace about two inches away from the first one, again using a double knot.
    • Using a sterile knife or scissors (that have been boiled in water for 20 minutes or wiped down with rubbing alcohol), cut between the two laces. Don't be surprised if it's rubbery and tough to cut; just take your time.
    • Cover the baby again when the cord is cut.
 For more information including how to deliver a Breech baby, see:
http://www.wikihow.com/Deliver-a-Baby


For additional information see the following links: 
Blog Table of Contents;
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Edible Wild Plants

Here are links to what we have covered here:

Greenbriar (catbriar)
Large List of Edible Wild Plants

Top Rated Prepper Handbook Posts of all time 
Search Blog:  Edible Plants
 Wilderness Survival

For additional information see the following links: 
Blog Table of Contents;

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Friday, June 10, 2016

Preppers Garden

For millions of years, humans were nomadic, surviving as hunters and gatherers. Once we learned to domesticate animals and plant gardens, we could settle down, stay longer in one area and sustain larger populations. Our ability to raise livestock and garden are essential to our survival today no matter how good you are at Wilderness Survival.

So how do you plant the ideal Prepper Garden?  Here are some thoughts on what it would include.
  1. First and foremost is ample land with good rich soil.  Long growing seasons with lots of sunshine and rainfall are all important, but also a creek for potential irrigation (and a good back up water supply).  In the Prepper Handbook on Amazon, it calculates that seven (7) acres per person is required for sustainable food supply which includes growing grains and pasture for livestock. 
  2. Nutrition, including protein as meat may be scarce.  To me this also means diet diversity. Greens are easy during the warmer weather, but winter time means things like cabbage, kale, turnips, broccoli.... what else? But you can eat only so much greens.
  3. Year-round food supply - must have crops available at all times of year, or that can be easily preserved like dried beans & corn.  Wheat, rice & oats also preserve well but are much more difficult to harvest.  Sorghum is good to eat and can be used to feed chickens. A huge help to have a small greenhouse or cold frame planter. See our blog on building a greenhouse
  4. Continuous long term producing foods where available. Most modern vegetables are a climax variety, meaning the entire crop ripens at the same time, and then it is gone. These are designed to be harvested all at once and preserved, which takes time, resources and energy.  An ever-bearing type, that theoretically produces a food serving for a family of four every other day of the year would be ideal.  Imagine going out to your garden each day and harvesting what you will be eating for the day.  Fruit trees, blue and black berries near the fence line reproduce each year without replanting. Citrus trees or vegetables producing in a greenhouse year-round is good.  Strawberries given some room and manure will do well year after year.
  5. Preservable foods that can be dried are good, like beans, peas and corn or those that store for long periods like nuts, potatoes and onions. Others that can be canned are good, but imagine how many canning jars would be required to store a winters worth of food for your family.  For two vegetables per day for 270 days or 9 months out of the year, you need at least 540 quart jars.
  6. Select heirloom varieties that are hardy and can produce usable seeds which are a top 10 barter item which also helps others. I would envision providing seeds and tools to neighbors for a share of their crop.
  7. A supply of organic fertilizer is essential for long term gardening. The American Indians would include a fish head with each corn seed when they planted it. A more modern source would be composting, manure from horses, cows, goats and chickens.  The Prepper Handbook also talks about the importance of rotating your crops. 
  8. Gardening tools and books are important too.  Essential tools include good quality shovels, garden rakes, hoes, an old fashion push mower (that doesn't require gasoline), a High Wheel CultivatorLehmans has some good tools to consider.  Wood handles are recommended as they can be replaced.
  9. When it comes to books, they need to be bound books, not electronic books. Some good ones to consider might include the followin:  MiniFarming, The Encyclopedia of Country Living, and The Backyard Homestead Guide to Raising Farm Animals. Remember you must have manure for fertilizer.  Again, Lehmans has some good books and many other things too.
  10. Last but not least, start a garden NOW. Successful gardening takes years to learn so don't wait until it is too late.  Start small and grow it larger each year. Even if it is small, a few potted plants on the patio or in the condo flower beds, get started.  Try to grow a few winter crops each year too.  They are easier in that you don't have to contend with the summer heat, drought, weeds & pests as much. Broccoli, cabbage & cauliflower do well but require a lot of space which is okay if you are not growing a lot of other things.
These are my thoughts, what are yours?
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